Savoring a piece of handmade gouda as I am writing this post, I am compelled to tell the story of Marc de Ruiter. Marc is the owner of Yellow Valley cheese, http://www.cheeseinchina.com/dynamic/ a cheese factory in rural Shanxi/山西 province. I interviewed him for my radio show.
Marc came to China 10 years ago working with Chinese farmers on various projects to help them improve their life. After helping many acquire better farming techniques, he noticed the village’s cow farmers were left behind. Milk was sold at a very low price and there was an over production. Coming from the land of gouda, what would you do? Marc set up his artisan gouda factory and took it from there.
His cheese has an elegant and homey taste, one that combines traditional techniques, patience and dedication. The velvety texture and uncomplicated good flavors are the best embodiment of someone doing great work and enjoying it.
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August 26, 2008 10:48 pm
Chinese and Cheese, the new Yin and Yang!
Is the younger Chinese generation developing a taste for cheese?
August 26, 2008 11:48 pm
Wow this is really surprising. When I was living in 福州 I would find myself heading over the closest Pizza Hut to indulge in some cheesy goodness. Normally I’m not a fan of Pizza Hut, but I was craving cheese so much it didn’t matter.
It will be interesting to see is more specialty cheeses start coming out of China.
August 27, 2008 5:51 pm
Art,
Wonderfully said. Marc said many locals simply can’t warm up to cheese. But some have found local ways to eat gouda: melt it on top of a piece of mantou.
Reanne,
I read an article about yak cheese made in Yunnan, a similar project to Marc’s. However, big dairy companies, local and foreign have been making and selling cheese in China for a while. But it’s processed cheese, the flat sheets that are quite mild for the local taste buds. Many people do actually enjoy it in a sandwich. But the real deal artisan cheese is still a small crowd thing.
August 29, 2008 12:21 am
Ooh, how can I buy some in Shanghai?? I love Gouda!
I guess I better follow that link now…
August 29, 2008 10:51 am
Jenny
Very nice, I share Art’s curiosity about the taste of cheese for Chinese. At the same time for those of us who wish we could hear Jenny 24/7 is your broadcast on the web?
August 29, 2008 11:45 am
John,
Slice Cafe at Times Square on Huaihai Lu sells Yellow Valley gouda. Marc said he is trying to get City Shop and maybe even Carrefour to sell too. Let’s hope that happens soon. You can also order on their website.
MikenotinJubei,
Chinese’s acceptance of cheese pretty much is defined by age and also geography. The urban young generation has started to get used to it. Look at the prevalence of pizza and affordable Italian food in big cities. But artisan cheese is still a very clique ish thing.
Thanks for your support as always. My radio show is on soulfire.cn. Fully aware and appreciative of your good will, I don’t wish to impose my voice on anyone for 24/7.
Take care!
September 1, 2008 10:45 pm
Woow!
What’s next? Chinese camembert?
We are doomed !!!
Just joking, in fact, I think it’s a good start!
Cheese is what I always miss when I’m in China :p
(and in Carrefour, common french cheese are so expensive).
But I guess cheese like black coffee is not that much in Chinese taste (yet?).
Jean (from France)
September 1, 2008 11:27 pm
Hi Jean,
How about yak cheese from Yunnan? It’s a community project similar to Marc’s gouda factory. It’s available in selected stores in Shanghai now. I read a review saying it tastes like aged cheddar with an aftertaste of good will.